Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists equally praising its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their younger generation are reluctant to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to discover these tales and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
